Pontresina Ski 2017

Pontresina 2017: Here We Come

26th December: Zurich

Time to break the routine and the idea of Christmas that you have to be everywhere with everyone. Time to reinvigorate. We Flew to Zurich and stayed overnight with family enjoying a delicious home cooked meal and hospitality. All set and excited for the ski pilgrimage to Pontresina.

27th December: Pontresina

Drove to pontresina. There had been a snow forecast and conditions were meant to be difficult for driving through the julier pass, so we decided to book the car on the train and go through the Vereina tunnel.

The vereina tunnel is a railway tunnel in the canton of graubunden in eastern Switzerland. It is 19k in length and is the worlds longest meter gauge railway tunnel. It was built in 1991 and opened in 1999 costing CHF 812m. It is a single track with passing loops.

Vereina Car Train

Pontresina

We arrived in Pontresina and made the usual trip to Gruber sports to hire the ski equipment for 6 days of skiing. It's very convenient when Andy at Gruber has all our details stored on the system and we just call in and ask for the "usual".

The Irish group as we have become known in the village over the years have made their mark with the local shops, restaurants and at the Rondo. Even the local pharmacist receives us every year providing us with all the usual remedies we need on the ski holiday. One of the senior ski instructors called Otto has been patiently coaching the Irish group over the years taking us from wreckless to moderately safe skiers over many lessons.

Pontresina, our little jewel in the engadin valley, Graubunden in eastern Switzerland, has been our ski holiday destination for almost 25 years.
This is probably the most beautiful region in Switzerland.
The engadinerhof hotel where we stay every year is one of the oldest in the town and founded in 1908. There is this great Nostalgic ambience and family atmosphere that has drawn us back with family and friends year after year. Bertram and Corrine Hissung have been running the hotel since 1998. We have got to know Bertram over the years and you feel like it's a home from home.

Engadinerhoff Hotel

The town of Pontresina is 1,805m above sea level in a valley, very close to the Bernina Range with the two most famous peaks of the Engadine: Piz Palü and Piz Bernina. The piz bernins is 4,040m and the highest peak in the Eastern Alps. There is a real beauty of the traditional Engadine houses and the elegance of large hotels of the Belle Époque in pontresina.

Stefan and Pat

28th December: Corvatsch

All set to hit the slopes today. We head over for our first ski to Corvatsch

Corvatsch Ski Area

This mountain is referred to as the large raven. Smart, breathtaking and free as a bird. Taking the number 1 bus through st moritz and zig zagging through fairy-tale mountain scenery in the Engadin. After about 45 minute scenic bus journey we arrive with a little trepidation.

Corvatsch

The big cable car is impressive in itself, gliding from Surlej up to the middle station in just about seven minutes. We decided not to venture to the upper section on our first day. The next level is the highest summit station in the Eastern Alps at 3,303m.

The high altitude and the beauty of the place takes your breath away in the real sense of the word.
Skiing in the constant squat position and already feeling the effect on the thighs, hamstrings, quads and glutes. We had incredible snow conditions as we did our first few runs down. When you ski half way down the Chastelet ski slope, the Alpetta bekons.

Alpetta restaurant 

Time now to power up and refuel. This cosy, rustic ski hut is one of our favorites and a must go to place every year. Some of our party love the rib eye steak.

Sarah's reward

Dorigio, the owner knows the Irish group well by now and he regales us with his tales of hunting in the valley. Many of the dishes are made from game that he has hunted himself. Dried venison,
Walking into the hut you see polenta being prepared in a huge pot outside. The aromas of meats, cheeses and coffee wafting through the air, staying with you long after you leave this amazing place

You can ski down the demanding but exciting 9km descent from the Corvatsch straight to St. Moritz, but we decided to stay in this area for our first day. Amazing skiing conditions left us buzzing on our homeward journey to the Engadinerhoff which feels like home now.

After hitting the slopes, there is nothing like the gluvein, salad bar and a good hearty Engadinerhof dinner with the few glasses of vino and then to gladly hit the pillow and enjoy a good night of restful sleep.

29th December: Corviglia

With a brilliant weather forecast for today, we took the number 2 bus very early to St Moritz and the funicular train up to Corviglia. 

We skied over to paradiso for coffee. This is truly an Idyllic location to Sit and linger among the "Bon vivants" the theme of the restaurants branding is "where devils meet angels" and the color schemes is black and red.

El paradiso

Mary and Siobhan

John and Ed

Antoine Konrad, the most successful Swiss DJ, was helicoptered into  "El Paradiso" while we were there for a coffee.

Spending the day on these awesome snow-covered mountains surrounded by natural beauty, forgetting about the stresses of daily life.

Back to the Engadinerhoff and always looking forward to the "recovery meal" at dinnertime.

30th December: Val de Roseg

Every morning, The weather determines which mountain to ski. Today the forecast was for snow and poor visibility. We decided to do the walk in the Roseg valley.

Pontresina – the ice-climbing centre in the Engadine

Pontresina has become a major hub for ice climbing. Every winter, the Pontresina Gorge transforms into mighty ice walls and imposing icicles. The rock is treated with water, increasing ice density, providing climbers with a variety of surfaces.
Stopping to observe climbers climbing up vertical ice, with their strong muscles and only six small steel spikes to stop them from slipping. It could not get any crazier and it made us feel that skiing is not that extreme afterall.

Ice Climber in Pontresina

We made our way to the southwest of Pontresina for the Roseg Valley. There are trails for walking, long lauf and horse drawn carriages. This valley is heavily glaciated and surrounding forest is a wild life haven for deer and bird life.
We had a  leisurely, seven-kilometer walk with a 190-meter-climb to the restaurant at the Hotel Roseg Gletscher at 1,999-meters. This beautiful valley has inspired artists such as Alberto and Giovanni Giacometti and Giovanni Segantini, and attracted writers such as Nietzche. 

Pat in the snow and sun

We had fun with the snow falling from the branches of arolla and stone pine trees.  The air is so fresh you can smell the snow. There is the swish of cross country skiers and tinkling of bells as horses pass on their way to the hotel. 

Sarah and Jane Cross Country Ski in Roseg Valley

Jane on her way back from Cross Country Ski

After abour 3k into the walk, we happened upon a bird-feeding station. There were packs of birdseed

and when you place them in the palm of your hand, the great tits alight and eat from from your hand.

It was lovely to feel their little claws scratch your hand as they peck.

John and Siobhan

Val de Roseg Walk: John, Siobhan, Eddie and Ed

Wild, romantic and sheltered from the wind. 

Val de Roseg

Roseg Hotel

Jane and Sarah

Lunch at Roseg

Horse Drawn Carriage

John, Siobhan, Mary and Ed

We had  great Guitar and sing song in the Engadinerhof that evening where we were spotted by a very interesting hotel guest that we were to meet on new year's night and continue the music.

31st December: Corviglia

New Year's Eve waking up to beautiful sunshine and a long day of skiing with a new challenge.
We Took the funicular to Corviglia.

Ed, Siobhan and John

Jane

Corviglia, above St. Moritz is fully linked with Marguns, Celerina, Trais Fluors. There was something very reassuring to be familiar with these runs and the snow conditions were so good that it made the skiing extra enjoyable. So much so that I agreed with the Irish group to take on Piz Nair for my end of year challenge.

Piz nair (3,056 m)

Hosted the alpine skiing event for the Winter Olympics in 1948. With equal measures of trepidation and reassurance from the group, I was Ready for off. Feeling the tension in my head as well as the body, I knew the Only way now was to move steadily downhill. I was certainly feeling the weight-bearing impact on the legs and the importance of all my body parts in this sport that is skiing, especially on this run.

We had a fantastic time gliding down the slopes feeling the strength increasing with each run. I made my way down feeling relieved after the challenge.
The view of the villages of St. Moritz, Celerina and Samedan is fairytale like.
We did a few runs to Marguns, and then glided to the right towards the St. Moritz - Chantarella funicular.

To make the best of the day, we Had a late lunch at Trutz. Home made barley soup has become the usual refuel lunch on this trip apart from the odd indulgence in more exotic fare.

Trutz

That evening, We had a most gastronomic New Year's Eve banquet at the Engadinerhoff. Beltram in his annual speech to the guests welcomed the Irish group with the "cupla focail" that he has learned from us over the years.

Pat and Stefan

After dinner, we changed from our finery and walked around pontresina to capture the atmosphere of the fading old year and the anticipation of 2018 with all its unknowns and hopes.

1st January: Corvatsch

Waking up to 2018 with new year resolutions safely stored away, we Took the mid morning bus to Corvatch. Beginning now to feel the cardiovascular benefits of the daily ski.

I found myself constantly working to stay balanced. A great effort to engage that core. At the end of each day, you are buzzing as we recount the day's challenges.
At dinner we review our ski week in the engadin and feel that yes pontresina bekons again next year.
We were very fortunate to meet the wonderful Joe Haider from Germany who is a talented and well renowned jazz pianist. After a little encouragement he played the grand piano at the Engadinerhoff. What a encounter to hear this man play many of the jazz standards well into the early morning. Joe Haider gave us a copy of his CD, Joe Haider Jazz Orchestra, "keep it dark".

Joe Haider: Jazz Pianist

The Irish group finished the evening with a rendition of our own National Anthem.
There were a few familiar Irish songs added to the mix. We concluded that Ireland's music is a serious export. Everybody you meet want to sing the Irish drinking songs.

2nd January 2018: Diavolezza

All packed and ready for our last ski. The weather was - 5 degrees and we decided to head out to Diavolezza. This year they have linked Diavolezza with Lagalb via an ambulator. This incredible feat of nature that is Diavolezza is known as the she-devil. Passionate, icy hot and devilishly beautiful, like flames in the snow. Ascending the mountain in the crowded cable car, we could see the beautiful Bianca di lago on our left.

The Views of glaciers and lakes was enough to take the mind off the thought of skiing down this She-Devil of a mountain. Today we couldn't get distracted by the surrounding beauty but had to stay focused on the slope in front of us.

It wasn't crowded today because of the weather but the thrill of wide open, Unspoilt, magnificent ski runs where all you had to do was focus on the next turn, listening acutely to surround sounds of skiers and snowboarders. There is a sense of combined adrenaline from all the souls out in these mountains all seeking the same thrill and adventure.

There is no doubt that Skiing boosts our happiness and well-being despite all the effort of ski boots, busses, long waits for ski lifts. We certainly got our vitamin D hit and went part of the way To reduce that wretched seasonal affective disorder of post Christmas.

Homeward Bound

With our usual final purchases of Lindt chocolate and paprika crisps from Co Op we make our way to the train for our trip to Zurich.

This is an incredible scenic journey on the distinctive red cars of the Rhaetian railway. The train trip goes some way in soothing the sense of separation on leaving the beauty of the engadin valley. 

Meandering elegantly down the mountains and over a Viaduct, crossing several arched, stone bridges that span deep canyons. You can see hundreds of feet down into these canyons. The train travels through several Tunnels carved into sheer rock faces.




Christmas and new year comes and goes but memories of pontresina linger on.
Family, friends, fresh air, natural beauty, daily exercise: Bring it on for 2018!